This idea popped into my head, and feel free anyone to add to it...
There are some new breeders that jump inot breeding, no knowning everyhting that they need to raise the spawn. I think these are things that are a necessity...

A LEAST a 5 gallon tank or equivalent... I have heard of some people attempting a spawning in those TINY betta tanks with the divider... You all know what ones I am talking about...
Some even try it is slightly larger 1 and 2 gallon tanks... a MINIMUM 5 gallon is necessisary, not only because a smaller space will almost gurantee a badly beat up female, but smaller makes themalemore likely to eat eggs..
And even if he doesn't munch eggs and fry, something that smallmakes it likely the water is going to foul faster.

LIVE FOODS!!! Yes, There is first bites, and egg spray, but at somepoint, VEs, Micros, Walters, and/or bbs are going to be needed.
Fry will soemtimes starve themselves to death, not recognizing non moving foods are something they can eat.
If you don;t have a live food colture, DO NOT attempt to breed.

Space... You are going to need space, not only for the grow out tanks, but for the jars when they get ot that size... Please concider this.

:welcome

Those are good tips, but I have some too:

A sumbersible heater is best for breeding, at around 80-82 degrees
(I hope that's the right unit).
A cycled filter is well needed
(You might do water changes but it's best just to have a filter anyways, it's good to be safe).
Aquari-sol, Betta-fix, Quick-cure is needed
(It treats the water)

good going Maru, I want to point out though, Quick Cure and Aquarisol both do the same think, kill ick and velvet.
It comes down to a personal choice. I prefer Aquarisol, if only because it doesn't stain the silicon.
Be aware though, that both of hese mdicines are deadly to snails, so it you end up neding to use it, you must pull any snails in the tank.

Also, Maroxy is excellent for preventing fungus on the eggs.
And if you have a community tank, you can kep your fry filter in there it keep it seeded and ready for use when you don't have a spawn.. Sponge filters are recommended most often.

Yeah that helps.
In my opinion aquari-sol is better, it cured Flare from eternal parasites.
though it is bes if you have both.Just in case.
I think that if you want nice looking healthy fry you should clean them every second day after 2 weeks for 1-2 weeks, then do it everyday.

I personally don't think you need live cultures- BBS is enough.

I put BBS as a live culture.
The thing is, many fry would rather starve rather than eat something that is not moving. One top breeder said the only thing all her fry eat, non living is egg spray.
If you are lucky, you will have fry that eat first bites, or golden pearls, or betta starter.. But if you don't, and your fry are too small for BBS and too big for egg spray, you are going to need something inbetween in size, that your fry will eat, or they will die.
I personally prefer VEs, because they are work free, breed fast, and you set up a culture, and forget about it until you need it.

Also I would like to add bettafix (betta sized dose of melafix) or melafix. It is made of tea tree oil and is all natural and is antibacterial and antifungal as well. and last but not least Indian almond tree leaf.

Could someone please translate? What are BBS and the other stuff you're talking about? Also, what size tank do you need for a grow out tank? Please translate for us newbies! I need specifics! ;) And, where do you obtain live foods anyway?

Are there any good, detailed, Betta books out there that cover everything possible about Bettas, including genetics and what to select for breeding? (I love learning about genetics). I'd rather do most of my reading through books and not on the computer though. All this reading burns my eyes on here!

^_^ No problem, take it slow. Ask us lots of questions like this and learn a lot first!
BBS is baby brine shrimp. They are hatched from baby brine shrimp eggs with contraptions you can often build yourself. If you want, I can post a DIY plan for how to build such a contraption.

Live food such as grindal worms and microworm are often grown from cultures from other people. It's often $5 - $10 to purchase a good sized culture online.
It is hard to find a book that covers as much as forums like this do. That is because it is best to learn from experience or other people's experience, and we are all just sharing our experiences here.

Well put Haeun. Sharing our collective knowledge is absolutely the best way to learn. Plus you can come to someone who grows to be a friend to you. Makes it easier. And, you get to have fun with a nice bunch of people to boot.

Questions are never dumb. Don't ever worry, just ask. Someone will surely be able to help you with an answer or find one if not.

I agree with your assessment Belle. I also use VE for the first three days after reaching free swimming, sometimes I go to BBS sooner.

Thanks Lady.
As for a book, I don't have it yet, but the best one that I think might help with a LOT of the information you'd like to have is V.Parnells book.
The New Betta.
I have heard a lot of good thinga bout this book, and I plan on seeing if it is still available soon myself.

The size of the growout depends on the size of the spawn.
If you have small spawns (20 fry) you could use something as small as a 10 gallon. Up to 50 fry, you are going to want to use at least a 20 long. 100 fry, you aregoing to want to use a 55 or separate them into different growouts, which is actually what many people do, with the larger fry going in one tank, and the smaller in another.
That may seem a little crowded, but if you are going to be pulling and jarring males, the numbrs should drop, and also, you'll probably be doing some serious watr changes, which also helps to beat the numbers game.
By the way, some people don't even use tanks, they use those rubbermain bins.
The only warning I have about those is that well.. you can't se the fry too clearly, and after a while, they start to crack.
By a while, I mean, I bought some in March 05 to try it out, and they began cracking on the edges in Sept 06 or so.. By that point, I was only using them for snail, and food, (daphnia, and scuds), so it wasn't a big deal. I just thought would mention it.

Hhhmmm.. I think I'd like to check out what's in that book. I might just order that.