I have a 5 gallon tank my Betta Spartacus is in right now. I wasn't expecting to have to isolate him from my 20 gallon tank, and this tank was pretty much a spur of the moment thing so I had to put him in it before it had even started to cycle.

I finally added some gravel to an empty Whisper filter bag and put that in his tank, hoping to speed things along. The gravel has been in there about a week or two now. He's been in this tank for a little over a month, and still no cycle.

At first I was adding Stress Zyme, in conjunction with Easy Balance, but I was told on another forum that the Stress Zyme is just slowing down the cycle. It's supposed to contain beneficial bacteria in it though. :unsure:

Spartacus got fin and tail rot, I treated with Tetracycline and he seemed to be doing better, but his fins are still torn looking a little. I got tired of medicating because I can't use my full spectrum florescent light, and using the incandescent makes it so dark I can't stand it. I've been adding Melafix to his tank, full recommended dosage, but I left the carbon in so it won't stay in the tank long. (On my other forum if you mention you use Melafix on Bettas they'd like to hang you!)

I'm assuming he's not healing completely because the tank is not cycled and I keep getting high Ammonia readings. Someone else told me that you can't cycle 5 gallon tanks though? What should I do?

Bettas really don't need cycled tanks. (I just did a simular responce on a different forum, except the kid's fish died, but it was also a older fish). In a 5 gallon tank, for one betta, you really don't NEED a filter. You need to do a 25-50% water change wioth aged water (if you have city water and it is high in chlorine, you will want to treat it to help get the chlorine out) every couple of days, and a 90-100% water change once a week. If you would like to keep them with a filter, get a spounge filter (it is the gentalest of filters, causes the least amount of current, keeps the betta happier b/c they can't swim against current with their long finnage, so having less current will keep them less stressed).

Also, maybe instead of gravel, get marbles (they sell them at walmart in the aquarium section). They are easier to rince out, and will keep the tank cleaner (all gravel does is hide the poopies) (it still is really there).

Do you have a heater for the tank? Keep the tank out of direct sunlight, and you want the water to stay a consistant 72-80. Bettas are happy with at about 76, I wouldn't keep them at anything much cooler than 72, and 80 degrees they like, but it really isn't necessary.

What might be the easiest solution for you might be get a plastic storage container or another small tank, and fill that with as much water as your tank would hold. Keep it to the side, under your fish stand, closet, whatever spot that it would be out of the way and stay undesturbed (make sure you have a lid for it!), and get a heater for it (if plastic, get the smallest heater you can get and have it suspended from the lid by drilling a hole in the top and put a know into the cord so it is not touching any of the edges). When it comes time to do a partial, put your fish in a small container to the side, take out some of the old water, and put the new water in, and put your fish back in. For a complete water change, take the marbles out and rince them, rince out the tank, refill it with the aged water, and put your fishie back in.

That will actually be easier than trying to get your tank to cycle.

Hope I helped!

Easier?? That sure doesn't sound easier to me. I'd have to go out and buy a sponge filter and marbles, when I already have a small filter and gravel. (And he doesn't mind the current, in fact, he likes to swim up to it and under it a lot) I always heard marbles were bad to use because shards break off when they rub against each other. My previous Betta bowl had marbles, and every time I did a total cleaning, I always had to make sure I got all the shard pieces flushed out.

I thought having the filter eliminated the need for so many water changes? In any case, I really don't want to have to go out and buy more supplies, when I already have it set up. Yes, I have a heater and the temp is at 80 degrees. I don't think I did that many water changes when my other Betta was in a 1 gallon bowl. I'd do a once a week 100% water change, but then got lazy and it became more like a once every couple of months.

If you were only doing a once every couple of months in a one gallon bowl it just shows a Betta can live in just about anything.

It can take a couple months for a tank to cycle and while it's cycling you will get high ammonia readings. You need to keep the ammonia in check with water changes until it cycles. Male bettas are not great for cycling tanks because the high ammonia in the water can really do a number of the long fins. The bag of gravel in the tank doesn't help it cycle. The bacteria needs the water flow of a filter to really grow. Also many medications kill bacteria (I don't know about what your using) so that can kill a cycle. Leaving the carbon in isn't helping the fish heal. The medication is meant to be in the water at a certain level for the full treatment time.
You need to take out the carbon and treat according to the directions on the medication. You need to do water changes to keep the ammonia levels in check.


RC

When I was medicating, first I used Bettafix, but only had enough for a 4 day supply. He healed, than all of a sudden his tail was completely split from base to tip. Then I used Tetracycline (yes the carbon was removed during both treatments). It seemed to work, too, and I started using Melafix in addition, but at half the recommended dosage. (Because people on a different Betta forum kept whooping and hollering that it kills Bettas)

Right now I'm basically not doing anything now but water changes every other day or so. I'll be gone over the weekend so I guess I'll try the Melafix after we get back. I'm just so tired of medicating though. I thought it was taking so long because of the high ammonia levels from it not being cycled yet.

I changed 1 gallon yesterday when the ammonia was at 1ppm. I thought maybe if I do less of a water change, it would still keep some ammonia needed for the bacteria to get started.

Ok, so I will preface this by saying that I cycle all of my tanks of all sizes, with HOB mini filters on the small ones and size appropriate filters on the larger tanks.
A little helpful tip, get adjustable filters.
Start them at the lowest settings and turn them up till just slower of a current that what gives them trouble. As their muscles develop you may find you can increase the current.

As far as cycling goes...
First thing you need to get a test kit, not dip strips but an actual test kit. Dip strips are not accurate enough for cycling.
Please realize that most anti-bacteria meds don't know the difference between the beneficial bacteria and the bad stuff...
I would honestly wait till you get his fins straightened out before cycling.
If you don't cycle yet, I would say to do 100% WC's every 3 days or so until he is better.
Even after it is cycled, weekly partial WC's will be needed, I would say 1-2 gals. or so vaccuming the gravel at that time.

As far as fins splitting, is he a flaring monster? If so, you may need to minimize his purpose for flaring until he's better.
Also, have you added aquarium salt to his water... sometimes that helps more than anything.