This topic is for all of us to share in our knowledge of building and assembeling R/C aircraft. Pictures help alot!!

Are you taking requests?

I've never installed Robart hinge points before, and that's what I'm using in the Decathlon. It seems pretty straighforward, drill and insert, but are there any tips? I drilled one hole only so far and it looked straight as I was drilling, but when I put the hinge in it was noticably crooked. Had to correct that with the drill and will need a little extra glue in that hole. I'm not worried about it, but I sure don't want to do it in all the others.

Also, what type of glue with these hinge points?

Good thread Billy!!!

Now if we could get Buddy to post on how he did the decals on the starfire...

Mike. The way I do the hingepoints is this. I mark the locations, then using the Robart hingepoint drilling tool, http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXET65&P=7 I drill the holes. I coat the hinge part with a drop of oil and epoxy the hinges in. Use slowest cure epoxy you can find.

How about making fiberglass parts. I've made a few but have never found a really easy way to make a mold. Particularly one where the parts come out smooth and do not need a lot of work to finish!

Hello all,
I have been working on building my first plane. It's a Tiger 2. I have assembled the wings and sheeted one side. I think i have a problem. Both halves are bowed. Maybe 1/4 inch sag in the middle both have the same amount. This is at the trailing edge. The trailing edge is made of balsa. Sheeted in 1 1/4 wide balsa at the trailing edge. If I got wider sheeting would it help to hold it straight? Any other ideas? The leading edges look ok to me. Thanks in advance for your help
Eddie

Is the middle of the wing bowed (where the spar runs) or just the trailing edge of the wing?

Just the trailing edge.

If it's just the trailing edge I'd weight the wing down with sandbags, just enough to keep it straight, then put on the other piece of balsa sheeting. The origonal piece should be enough to straighten it. Sounds like you put one side of sheeting on then left it for a time causing it to warp? You always want to do one side then the same to the other to keep the warp out....

This is a good thread that will help alot of people like me. I am about to start on a new project from a set of plans i ordered. I have just about had it with monokote no matter how many time i get the wrinkles out of it after a few days the seem to reappear so on this project i am going to sheet the entire thing and try my hand at painting the whole thing. I was wondering do you have to fiberglass the entire thing or can I prime and paint it? Also like Osiris 711 said how can you make some good fiberglass parts i am going to have to make a cowl and a canopy. The cowl is pretty much a cylinder but i dunno about making a clear canopy?

There's some good info here about making a fiberglass cowl etc...

making a fiberglass cowl

"I use the "lost foam" method.

Carve/sand a block of pink or blue foam to the shape and size you need.

Cover the foam with a low temp film (Econokote, Towerkote) to insure the foam will not melt from the resin. (Some resins WILL eat/melt the foam)

I then either apply PVC mold release or put on a minimum of 10 coats of wax. (provided you want to save [or try to save] the plugs).

Cut your fiberglass cloth into strips about 2" wide and about 6" - 8" long. The weight of the fiberglass will depend on what you are using it for and the size of the part. For a 40 size cowl I normally use either 2 layers of 2 oz cloth or 1 layer of 4oz cloth with a layer of 2 oz over it. Again, this will depend on the overall size and shape.

LIGHTLY spray several strips with 3M #77 and apply them to the plug. You should have at least 1/2" of overlap on the edges/seams. Do this to all the strips before you apply them so they will adhere. You will want a minimum of 2 layers, again, depending on the size/shape of the part. I have found that 2 layers works well for 40 - 60 size cowls. It provides the rigidity and strength I want/need without being overly heavy.

I use laminating resin for mine. Mix up about 2 oz of resin (again, depending on the size of the part) for a 40 - 60 size cowl. You want to mix it so you have a 30 - 40 minute WORKING TIME. Now dilute this 10% BY VOLUME with acetone.

I use plumber's flux brushes to apply the resin. Apply the resin and be sure the cloth is COMPLETELY saturated. (if you see white spots, that area is not saturated) Once the cloth is saturated, CAREFULLY squeegee off any excess resin with a playing card (if you do not take the excess of now, you will be sanding it off later) . Let this dry for about 48 hours. NEATNESS COUNTS IN THIS STEP.

Once it is dry, you can look the part over and decide if you need to add another coat of resin to fill the weave or not. If you need to fill the weave, do it now with the resin. Do not dilute this batch.

When dry, sand the part as needed. I use spot putty to fill any low spots (comes in a tube in the automotive section and is red in color ).

When the part is sanded and filled, be sure you have nothing hanging over the back of the plug.

If you are going to try to reuse the plug, take the part and immerse it in water for about 30 - 45 minutes while GENTLY flexing the fiberglass part to allow the water to get between the fiberglass and the plug. The water will allow you to "pop" the part off the plug.

If you are not interested in saving the plug OR the part will not pop off (the RC Gods like to play jokes on us mortals ), take the part outside and make an X in the back of the covering. In the X pour a little gasoline (2 - 3 oz is plenty for a 40 - 60 size cowl ). Come back in 20 minutes and clean out the sludge and dispose of properly.

Thoroughly wash the part inside and out with soap and water. The part will be very soft and flexible. After the part is washed, do any final reshaping with your fingers and set the part aside. It will need about 72 hours to harden up.

It sounds hard, but it really isn't - just messy. "

Heres a couple of tips.


Throw away your monokote irons, wood plainers, and CA glue.

Get yourself a good set of hex drivers, a pitch guage, and plenty of loctite.


There is a hidden message in there if you can figure it out. :D


Scott

:lol:

Pthttphttttttetpffff :P :P :helicopter:

Scott this thread is for tips on any type aircraft. Your vast knowledge and experience in repairing damaged choppers is very welcome here.

If you only need to make 1 part the lost foam method works fine. Carve your piece out of cheap foam, then glass it and melt the foam out of the part.

For running servo leads thru the wing or fuse use some kite string with a small wheel collar to feed the wire, works great!!

For running antenae's thru the fuse, use inner or even outer ni rod tubing.

Use small disposable dixie cups for a quick, easy epoxy mixer

For tying servo links together use shrink wrap tubing for take a piece of kite string, wrap it length wise around the connection, tie it and use a small drop of thin CA to hold it..

To fix a heli crash the best method is to buy a new part ;)

To get epoxy off of your hands use hand lotion then wash your hands

Everyone know about getting CA off of your hands, either debonder or sandpaper ;)

To keep from sticking your plane to the table or plans use wax paper

For an extra 'hand' use sandwich/freezer bags with some sand in them

My favorite... To cut monokote, put the monokote on some foam, I use 1/4" house siding foam then cut the monokote

INVEST IN A RAZOR PLANE. I must have built 15 or 20 kits before now, and didn't have a razor plane for a single one of them. Having that measely little 8 dollar tool on the Decathlon has made a huge difference. I knew it would help, but didn't expect it to help near this much.

Good one Mike, a razor plane is a must along with a dremel!!!!!

Well I did learn something from this thread......


I mis-spelled plane. :wacko:

Thats ok Scott.

I can't spell Helepacopter :o

Fellas I have hit a brick wall :banghead: on my latest project after assembly I have found out that my muffler is not going to clear the bottom of the fuse. I would hate to cut into the fuse to get clearence but i have not been able to find a 1" muffler extension for a Thunder tiger pro 46 engine so if anyone has any ideas i would be grateful. other thatn that i am going to preform surgery on it tonite and make me some room. Also the cowl that cam with the plane is rather large i am going to have to dissect it as well to make it smaller. i am thinking of cutting it in half and shortening it and epoxy it ack together

Without seeing the plane I'm guessing that your trying to mount the engine on the side. How about mounting the engine inverted? The muffler should clear fine that way. Sometimes you'll run into minor engine flooding issues with it inverted but usually it's minimal if any...

As far as the cowl, I think that I'd either space the engine mount out from the firewall or get a longer engine mount. You may run into a lot of other issues if you go to shorten the cowl...

Posting these tips in the right forum :wacko:

Here's some tips and tricks that I like, I'm sure that everyone knows them but you never know...

The first is a cheap parts holder. I like to save the container that hamburger, steaks etc comes in to hold all of the parts for a project. Much easier than looking all over for everything..

I put a magnet on the small screwdrivers that aren't magnetized... Sure makes it easier to handle those small screws!!!!!

This is a small hand drill that I use to 'press' on the holders, retaining bracket for the EZ connectors. Works great!!

If you want your epoxy to be really strong use some milled fiberglass mixed in. It really ties the epoxy together. My friend who is a pro builder told me about this one....

Storage hangar...

If you can't find the extension for the TT, one for an OS .46 or .50 might fit. The TT looks to be a clone of OS.

You also might try mounting the engine over on a 45 degree or so angle. Sometimes this will allow for stubborn muffler clearance.

Thanks for the info alvin but me and my trusty razor saw made some surgical insicions into the fuse and made a nice little poclet for the muffler so it is good to go. but tha ##%*&^%% cowl is ulgy i may have to take it off but i got it on but the fit isnt too good