In the user Guid for my Evolution 46 NT, It says, If the engine will not be used for several days, put a fuw drops (10) of oil ,(Marvels Mystery Oil), into the carburetor, and turn the engine over with your starter for a few seconds. Sounds good to me, so that is what I have been doing.... UNTIL" About Three months ago....Because I was reading on the back of MORGAN FUEL Cool Power 15%.
DO NOT USE AFTER RUN OILS! It says Morgan Fuel contains a rust inhibitor and an Anti-oxidant...So I stoped using Marvels Mystery..Well on May 8th and 9th the motor would not shut off, it would idle down, but not stop. I put my finger over the carb but it would just keep on runing. I could just pinch the spinner to stop it..

It is still under Warranty, So I sent it to Horizon Service Senter on May 10th.
Got it back on May 20th "Realy fast service" Thay installed a carb gasket/O-ring set. AND Ft and Rear Bearings. The "Reason"!!! Thay were RUSTY!!! The guy that worked on my motor said. If you are not using after run oil you should...SO My Point Here Is, If you are using MORGAN COOL POWER, and counting on it to protect your bearings. Give it another thought. Now, I also have Two, OS 46, a Saito 56, and a Saito 72, that have been runing on Morgan fuel. I wonder what shape those bearings are in???

What are you guys doing to protect your engines????? And I forgot to mention, Horizon alsp put in a new glow plug and sent me a muffler gasket set.....GOOD FOLKES TO DEAL WITH :thumbup: Don

If I remember right coolpower uses a synthetic oil base which protects the engine fine while running. When you're thru running the engine you need to burn the rest of the fuel out of the engine as the synthetic oil wont protect the engine from rusting. A castor based fuel like morgan's omega will protect the engine better when not in use. It leaves a film on the internal components which will help prevent it from rusting.

You can put Marvel oil, Hobbico after-run oil, or my favorite and the cheapest pneumatic tool oil. My :twocents:

I spit in the carb, hold my breath, and spin around ten times. then fall down and bust my a**.

No really, been useing Morgan's Cool Power 15% for at least 25 years and never used any afterrun stuff except for a small bottle of the commercial stuff of some kind about 15 years ago just for kicks.

Had lots of toy airplane problems over the years (ie pilot error) but never any engine problems ( I used to actually fly fairly often ) due to rust.
Whenever engines where tore down, just that light green stain on inside that coolpower does to them.

Even coolpower (pure syn lube package) has the rust inhibitor secret stuff in it or so they say. Sort of like the anti foaming stuff said in the fuel also, who knows if/what really in there from batch to batch.

Just my good luck on the no rust deal I reckon. Have heard of problems like Don had and no doubt they happen.
I can't see any reason not to run the engine dry and add some oily stuff, belt & bracers approach.

I heard just don't use WD40 as it has something in it that attacts moisture ?????
Still a bit of "Black Magic" in the engine care procedures, huh.

Alcohol is a moisture attractant, in other words leaving any fuel in the engine will attract moisture, the more fuel the more moisture. So it is best to burn all the fuel out of the engine at the end of the day. This should be done at an idle, don't rev the motor, running the fuel out causes a lean condition, so you don't want to have the engine at a high RPM when the fuel & Oil run out.

Many people use Carb covers and exhaust plug to seal the motor when not in use, It's an option.

After run oil is good to use no matter what the MF says.

Those of use in the helicopter croud fight this problem on a routine basis, the carb on most helicopters is inside the fan shroud and makes it very hard to put after run in our engines. if you read the heli board any the always replaceing bearings, any guesses why?

The best fuels are the ones with a castor oil or a caster/syn blend, the castor sticks better to the parts and helps protect the engine even durring a lean run. the problem with caster is it gets on the exterior of the engine and muffler and bakes on making the engine look nasty, it also smells bad when burnt so many don't like to use it.

Many will also buy extra engine oil and add a oz or two to a fresh gallon of fuel raising the oil content to give better lubrication.

It all come down to what works best for you.

I allways run the engine out at the end of the day...I think I will start using the OMEGA Fuel, And put some after run oil in it....As a matter of fact Horizon said thay Test run the motor with OMEGA 15% Fuel Thanks for your help Don :toontwo:

I use after-run oil only when my engines are going to set a while ( like a couple of years) before I use them again......what can I say I'm lazy :rolleyes:

Well I am going to keep giveing them a squirt of Marvel Air Tool Oil :)

Hi, I reccomend useing afterrun oil. It couldn't hurt unless you use too much. To prevent useing too much I use a meat injector to suck up just the right amount, about 20-30 drops should do it. Too much oil could cause a hydraulic lock which will exert tremendous fources on your connecting rod and bearings.

If you don't use afterrun, use a fuel with about 50% castor oil as it will help prevent rusting. SIG Cahampion has 20% oil content with 1/2 casto 1/2 synthetic. YOur bearings won't rust with this. However, I like less castor so I use hobbytown fuel that contains about 20% castor oil content.

I think that "Guest's" castor oil precentages are for the % of castor oil in the total lubricant package and not % for the whole jug of fuel.

Though, I did know of a Fox engine that took almost 50% oil in fuel for it to run without over heating when it was new.